- The Spring rod does not promote bite. It reacts to bite and controls what traction is available in a way that helps the car get off the corner quicker.
- Since this is accomplished by controlling rear end steer tendencies under acceleration, then any adjustment will be in response to what the car is doing.
- If the car is pushing off the corner, adjust steer by:
- Increasing spring preload (RR)
- Reducing spring preload (LR)
- If the car is loose off the corner, adjust steer by:
- Reducing spring preload (RR)
- Increasing spring preload (LR)
- The amount of adjustment depends on track conditions and experience. Generally, when the car is close, an 1/8˝ adjustment (1-1/2 turns) can be felt.
- As a general rule, the most movement you’ll ever be able to use is 1-1/2˝ with an average between 1/2˝ and 1˝.
- Be sure to check side clearance on torque arm to ensure that at the maximum wheelbase change there is no interference with driveshaft.
- All sliding parts are aluminum and are therefore subject to wear in abrasive conditions.
- Complete rebuild instructions are included with each Spring Rod.
- Each spring rod is shipped with the correct wrench kit to perform all necessary adjustments.
- Center-to-center length of the Spring Rod should be set the same as the solid radius rod would be in same location.
- Initial preload on spring should be set at 4˝ loaded length of spring. (Free length is 4-1/2˝.) Spring selection is based on the following conditions:
- Greasy, slick track or dry, dusty track generally requires a lighter spring rate, regardless of tire and body rules (650#).
- Extra-light cars (such as sprint, modified or late model under 2000#) generally use lighter rate spring (650#).
- Tracks with good bite, medium to heavy cars, all asphalt applications use heavy springs (900# to 1050# Dirt and 1200#, 1600#, or 2000# Asphalt).
Back to Top